He tweaked those methods to cater to local palates. Unlike many communities, the Balti Triangle was mixed rather than segregated. “It was ripe for a fusion dish,” says Munro. “It was made for the western customer,” adds Hussain. 

“Although one-pot cooking happens in Baltistan [a region of Pakistan where some believe the dish’s name derives from], it’s like saying jam comes from Jamaica. [Balti] is a Brummie invention and I’m passionate about that,” says Munro, Hussain nodding in agreement. 

Just a handful of balti houses remain in the Triangle. The Irish community which heavily patronised the restaurants has moved out. Balti spots opened elsewhere in the city and the West Midlands; balti-lovers no longer needed to travel in. Many closed down when their proprietors retired, their children pursuing other careers. The Triangle’s main thoroughfares – Ladypool Road, Stratford Road and Stoney Lane – are now lined with restaurants from all over the world.

For Hussain and Munro, this is why balti houses need to be preserved. There have been several attempts to gain protected status, including a 2012 move to earn Traditional Speciality Guaranteed Status under the EU Protected Food Names scheme.

Ultimately, these haven’t succeeded, hence the APAB. Why does it matter? “Balti’s been bastardised,” says Munro, referring to the likes of the ubiquitous football half-time snack, the balti pie, as well as supermarkets stocking ‘balti sauce’ and restaurants purporting to serve the dish without adhering to its protocols. 

“Balti is a specific dish, a specific way of cooking. It’s a Birmingham thing and should be recognised as such,” Munro continues. “My concern is when people come to Birmingham for the Commonwealth Games, they’ve heard about this balti, and have a pseudo balti, they’ll think, what’s the bloody fuss about? It’s just like the curry I have in Manchester or anywhere else.” Whether Boris Johnson’s recorded message to this week’s Best Curry Awards ceremony will help remains to be seen. “we’re not just building back better, we’re building back balti,” he announced

At 36, Hussain is still young, though he worries about the future. “Are my children going to carry on with this? I don’t think so. At the same time, it would be nice to think, when I retire, that I have continued the legacy and it’s being carried forward.”  

Andy Munro’s three balti houses to visit 

Shabab, Balti Triangle

In the heart of the Balti Triangle, it has traditional glass topped tables with the menus underneath and quirky decor. Lauded by the Hairy Bikers, try a simple balti chicken and mushroom served up sizzling in a rich, smoky sauce, all mopped up with a sticky Peshwari naan.

163-165 Ladypool Rd, Sparkbrook, Birmingham B12 8LQ; shababs.co.uk

Shahi Nan Kebab House, Balti Triangle

Maybe a restaurant that is not blessed with the most romantic of culinary names, but its chef used to be in the Pakistani navy and cooks up a mean balti. Try the superb balti chicken jalfrizies – but be warned that this is not for the faint hearted, although they can tone it down if you’re not up to the challenge.

353 Stratford Rd, Sparkbrook, Birmingham B11 4JY; 0121 771 2787

Royal Watan, Selly Park

A proud family-run restaurant famous for attracting the BBC glitterati before their Pebble Mill studios lost out to Manchester. It has a superb range of ‘ancestral’ dishes passed down through generations, but try the ‘Pakistani moussaka’ – balti lamb and aubergine complimented by a fresh and yeasty, garlicky naan. 

602-604 Pershore Rd, Birmingham B29 7HQ; royal-watan.co.uk