‘We used to queue for food in Soviet Russia – now we own a Mayfair restaurant empire’

They have not been deterred by coronavirus nor its ruinous effect on the hospitality industry. Last December they opened Hideaway, a cafe with a Hedonism wine list (Royal Siberian caviar with your lobster roll, anyone?) and more recently The White Horse, a pub. Fokina also launched a design business. The couple are mulling the idea of expanding Hideaway abroad – Paris, Rome, Milan or Dubai.

That’s not to say they have emerged from the pandemic unscathed. “With Hide, from the first lockdown to September, it was quite big losses, to be honest. But we saved our team,” said Chichvarkin. They negotiated their rent payments with their landlord and topped up their staff’s furlough payments. 

Now, the rising omicron case count has hammered Christmas bookings in restaurants across the capital. “Unfortunately I think we all have to prepare ourselves for a rocky start to the new year,” said Fokina. “But we are very lucky to be part of a bigger business.” Hedonism’s sales have been strong throughout.

When they first met, Chichvarkin was married, but he later divorced. Now, Chichavarkin and Fokina have a family together. What’s it like working together as a couple? “Tatiana runs the business, I am just the investor,” said Chichvarkin.

“Don’t do it,” said Fokina. “I would much rather we could come back and be like ‘oh, how was work, what did you do today?’ But it is nice to have the camaraderie.”

One thing that they can’t share is going back to Russia. Chichvarkin cannot return, but Fokina takes their daughter back regularly – where her family still own their old apartment in St Petersburg. “I think it makes it more real for her,” she said. 

“My mum was always an inspiration for me in terms of work ethic, and I hope… all I really care about is that my daughter knows that whatever you do, you need to do it properly.”

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