There was a time when running your own restaurant was seen as living the dream. You love food and people? Basically, you host a dinner party every night – but you get paid for it. You might also become famous, like national treasures Chris Corbin and Jeremy King. 

In 2022, however, running a restaurant is like having a sous vide albatross around your neck. For myriad reasons, you can’t get the staff, and those you can get keep getting struck down by you-know-what. I have nothing but admiration for anyone in hospitality keeping the lights on right now. And giving it their all.

A hospitality crisis

When I settled down with a gin and tonic in the lounge at Hipping Hall in the Lake District, the maître d’ apologised in advance as he handed over the leather-bound wine list: “We can’t, unfortunately, offer pairings this evening. We have several people off, and the staff aren’t experienced enough.”

My heart sank. I wasn’t that cheered by the lounge either, which was cosy but needs a refurb and mood lighting. Restaurants with rooms should make a statement during the aperitifs and nibbles, and while Hipping Hall is gorgeous in all its slate-grey, 17th-century characterful glory, the sofas and armchairs are a little bit “house clearance”. But no matter – the staff were a joy.