I set out to partly rectify this on my final day. While I couldn’t cover all the slopes in Zauchensee, the furthest point from my base in Alpendorf, I could tick off all the area had to offer in Flachau, which, like Méribel, is an the après-ski hotspot given its central location on the piste map. Reaching it by the new Mozart Express, I was soon soaking up the sun, and clocking up laps on slopes so wide and empty I could carve from side to side, before hopping back on to the lift – the crowds of France a distant memory.
Did I ski the full 200km during my stay? I lost track amidst the empty pistes and warm hospitality that were so ampy and which proved to be a greater bounty than any mileage counter.
After a final spa session, it was time to catch the half-hourly direct train from St Johann back to Salzburg before my flight home – much more pleasant – and cheaper – than catching a taxi down the winding roads from the resorts of the Les 3 Vallées. For me it was the final seal of approval for this unheard-of alternative.
The details
Colin travelled as a guest of the Austrian National Tourist Office (austria.info) and the Ski Amadé area (skiamade.com), which offers six-day lift passes from €278 (£230) – for more information on the new ski area visit salzburgersportwelt.com.
Stays at the Gut-Berg in St Johann (+43 6412 5646; gut-berg.com), including half board, cost from €135 (£112) per person per night, based on two sharing. BA (ba.com), easyJet (easyjet.com), Jet 2 (jet2.com) and Tui (tui.co.uk) fly direct to Salzburg from 17 airports in the UK, starting at £30 one-way, not including hold luggage. Return tickets from Salzburg airport to St Johann (oebb.at) start at €22 (£18).
Austria’s eased covid rules
In ski resorts: From March 5 all Covid protection measures, including the 3G health passport, will be lifted in Austria, except for mandatory FFP2 masks on public transport, including cable cars, and in essential shops.
To enter: All travellers must show either proof of full vaccination, recovery from Covid in the past 180 days or a negative test to enter Austria – referred to as 3G status. If showing proof of vaccination, you must demonstrate that you received your second dose or a booster no more than 270 days before arrival. PCR test results are valid for 72 hours, antigen test results are valid for 48 hours.
