Although in theory this year we’re back to large gatherings of friends and families, I’m sure plenty of people will keep numbers tight; and many others would secretly prefer it quieter anyway. 

A festive meal for two can (and should) feel celebratory. Here is an opportunity to step away from the traditional turkey or massive rib of beef, and try something else on for size, perhaps a few dishes or ingredients that are even more luxe than you’d normally go for if you were feeding a crowd.

I think this menu strikes a good balance of fancy (Lobster! Truffle butter! Wild duck! Prunes in Armagnac!) and familiar (got to have sprouts and cranberries). It’s rich and shou

ld satiate any cravings for feeling festively full, while also leaving plenty of room for a cheeseboard (and more) later on. Prepare a few of the things in advance (par-boiling vegetables, braising the duck legs, soaking the prunes and making the brittle), and it’s largely a case of assembling items and some light touch cooking. 

Which leaves plenty of time in the day for the customary walk, board games, arguments… à deux or en masse, things aren’t so different after all.

Ed Smith (@rocketandsquash) is a cook and food writer, his latest book Crave; recipes to suit your mood and appetite was released early this year.

Wild duck  is a seasonal treat, albeit a relatively inexpensive one and much better at feeding two people than most joints. There’s a tiny bit of preparation to ensure the little legs yield soft meat, and also their flavour for a gravy.