So how and why has Shiv’s transformed from chic to bleak so fast?
A simple but unsatisfactory explanation would be that this happened somehow by accident. That costumes which worked in the dressing room simply failed to translate on camera or that the costume designers took their eye off the ball.
But that doesn’t add up and it feels far more plausible that their eye was more on the ball, more in cahoots with the writers and directors, than ever. On a show as meticulously researched and crammed with clever, devastating signals as Succession, it’s unthinkable that one of the central character’s wardrobes would ever be anything other than entirely intentional, especially at such a crucial point in the narrative.
When I interviewed costume designer Michelle Matland about season two’s looks in 2019, her process was carefully thought-out. ‘The original inspiration for Shiv is the classic women of Hollywood – Katharine Hepburn, Marlene Dietrich. They were among the first women to even wear trousers and reinvented what it meant to look like a woman,” Matland told me. “Now is an authentic female time – we see it in politics and business… it feels like a moment for women.”