It is periodically dangerous. While not prone to lava tantrums, its caldera lake is a regular source of “lahars” – torrents of water, mud and rocky debris, propelled downhill by volcanic activity below the surface, and extremely destructive. Ruapehu was responsible for one of the most shocking accidents in New Zealand’s history – the Tangiwai Disaster of 1953, where a lahar, pouring south from the mountain’s rooftop, ripped away a support pillar to a bridge over the River Whangaehu minutes before an express train was due to speed over it. The crash killed 151 passengers.
Care had to be taken with so pristine a setting. This was not always the case. In December 2005, earthwork contractors were hired to remove from Ruapehu’s flank all evidence of a production legacy that locals had come to refer to as “Orc Road”. Other ingrained marks were more desirable. Elsewhere on the North Island, 30 miles from Hamilton, the set created for Hobbiton survives as a bona fide attraction. Intended to be temporary, it was expanded in time for Jackson to start filming his Hobbit trilogy in 2011. Tourists can explore a cinematic echo (hobbitontours.com) with 44 “hobbit holes”; a site that, as the first thing on camera in the whole Lord of the Rings series, had to be convincing. “I knew Hobbiton needed to be warm, comfortable and feel lived in,” Jackson later explained. “By letting weeds grow up through the cracks, and establishing hedges and little gardens a year before filming, we ended up with an incredibly real place – and not just a film set.”
Ultimately, though, the success of The Lord of the Rings is built on New Zealand’s beauty. And versatility. It is capable of pastoral calm and rustic loveliness befitting the hobbits’ home, Shire. It also has a flair for threat and fiery menace in its most rugged extremities.
The brief exchange between Frodo and king-in-exile Aragorn (Viggo Mortensen) – still disguised as the horseman Strider – as the Fellowship sets off east to Rivendell, says it all.
“Where are you taking us?” the hobbit asks nervously. “Into the wild,” comes the answer.
Six holidays for hobbit fans
Ski down Mount Doom
For all its tectonic grumpiness, Mount Ruapehu is one of New Zealand’s best options for a day on the slopes. In fact, the volcano is home to three distinct ski resorts. Whakapapa, on its north flank (mtruapehu.com/whakapapa), has 67 pistes – as well as Happy Valley, a separate area where beginners can take lessons. Turoa (mtruapehu.com/turoa), on the south-west side, offers challenging runs on its upper areas. Tukino (tukino.org), on the east face, is the smallest of the three but is often the least crowded. The season tends to last from June to October. This fits with the 13-night North Island Classic road trip sold by Discover The World (01737 214250; discover-the-world.com), which can be taken year-round from £2,430 per person (with flights). Local specialist Ski New Zealand (00 64 3443 0812; skinewzealand.co.nz) offers a five-day Ruapehu ski break from £525 per person.
