Webcam-watching is often a part of the planning process, and the wicked winds, which all too often sweep over the slopes, are more poetic on the page than on the chairlift – they cruelly threaten to ruin a ski day in one foul bluster. On its day though, as the saying goes, skiing in Scotland is up there with the best of them. You’ll know why if you’ve ever spent a morning cruising down the White Lady, a steep Cairngorm red staring down the barrel of the Loch Morlich.

Beginners are never left behind, either. On discovering the Ptarmigan Bowl at Cairngorm, a gentle area up at the top of the mountain (an often rare find in the Alps), a novice friend once voiced their joy at the fact they weren’t going to be stuck next to the car park all day – the view was the icing on the cake. 

Two travelator lifts at the popular novice spot the Lecht, another resort in the Cairngorm National Park, mean beginners can think about the snow rather than the navigating tricky tow lifts – with six green-graded runs waiting to learn on. While, on the west coast, Nevis Range has great greens near the restaurant, meaning a coffee break is never too far away, and Glenshee’s 40km of pistes, on the east coast, will pleasantly surprise intermediates.

You only have to look at the snowfall last year to see how good a ski trip in Scotland can be. In February 2021, the biggest snow drifts seen since the 1980s dumped down on the access road to Cairngorm Mountain. Sadly, the pandemic prevented any of the resorts from opening.

The record-breaking snow was a kick in the teeth for resorts, but not for local skiers and snowboarders. “You could hike 20 minutes outside your door and get some turns,” says Euan Baxter, development officer at Snowsport Scotland.
Russell Murray is another local Aviemore skier who took full advantage of the conditions. “We did one great tour from Glenfeshie, right across the Cairngorm plateau,” says Russell. “We covered four munros that day… You’re skiing little sections that, sure, someone may have skied before, but not in the same conditions. Scotland changes so much, even the course of one day.”

The inconsistency of snow can mean it’s hard to plan a ski trip to Scotland in advance, of course. “You’ve got to be quite opportunistic,” says Russell. The best course of action is to plan a more general winter holiday to the Highlands, rather than focussing solely on skiing. I’ve had great days out visiting the UK’s only wild reindeer herd in Aviemore, or walking through the Caledonian forests around Loch Garten, spotting red squirrels and (from April onwards) the reintroduced ospreys. The Frank Bruce Sculpture Trail is a short walk near Loch Insh, taking in the slowly-rotting work of the eponymous artist, who carved his work into the trees themselves. 

“Try and be flexible,” Euan advises. “Travel to where the snow and the weather are best.” The Lecht and Nevis Range are both within an hour of Cairngorm Mountain, while Glencoe and Glenshee are within two.

There’s no doubt that wherever and whenever you end up skiing in Scotland, the Highlands will blow you away – the only question that remains is whether the wind or the views will do it first.

The best Scottish ski resorts

Cairngorm Mountain

30km of pistes are accessed via Aviemore at Cairngorm Mountain and remarkable views out over the eponymous mountain range. The Ptarmigan Bowl ensures beginners can ski with a view while the White Lady and M1 Race Piste are fun, fast reds. A short hike to the summit of Cairn Gorm provides fantastic backcountry access.

Glencoe Mountain

Scotland’s oldest ski resort is also perhaps its most beautiful. There are eight lifts and 22km of runs at Glencoe Mountain, which is set on the mountain Meall a’ Bhùiridh. Flypaper is one of the steepest pistes in Europe. Watch out for frozen waterfalls below when you’re on the lifts.