But we are beginning to see the stirrings of a revolution from Gen Z – the very people most wedded to throwaway fashion. Of course, when a new generation picks up on something people have been doing for centuries, it needs to be repackaged, hence the current hype around ‘fashion regeneration’ – a fancy term that anyone older than 50 would recognise as the old adage of ‘Make Do and Mend’.
“Many of these cheap clothes don’t even withstand the first wash,” says Chiara Menage, who sources vintage fashion for television and film that she also sells on Menage Modern Vintage. “I think that’s changing now, slowly we are starting to recognise that you need to wear an article of clothing many, many times to justify its environmental cost. Our mothers darned everything, from underwear up, and there’s a real kind of beauty in wearing something that has been lovingly, even if not very skilfully, preserved.”
Since the pandemic hit, many older people have remembered the art form, while teenagers have started teaching their peers how to make clothes on social media. Andrew Burgess is one of them. Known on TikTok as @wandythemaker, he is becoming increasingly famous for his “thrift flip” clips, in which he repurposes used material into clothes. His most popular videos show him turning quilts, blankets and curtains into tops, trousers and jackets. He’s very young and very talented – and this modern day Maria von Trapp has become a Gen Z star, amassing 350k followers and 6 million likes since he started posting on the app in 2020.