But he was left almost gnawing the table after a 50-minute wait for a pizza; the service, always smiling, was sometimes inexorably slow. And when our food did arrive, we still had to sign for it, despite the fact that on arrival we had been given a wristband to indicate our all-inclusive status. 

Apart from the wristband, though, there was no evidence of the cheap plonk and never-ending buffets that characterise traditional all-inclusives. One night we ordered room service, with only the tray charge to pay. The chic contemporary rooms here are the kind you want to spend time in, with their wooden floors, huge map murals, splashes of colour, and soundtrack of the sea just outside.

While there isn’t a beach at Fort Young, it does have a dive centre, with unlimited unescorted dives available as part of the package. Or you can take a boat from the hotel’s jetty on one more included excursion: a lionfish hunt.

This colourful fish may look exotic but it is an opportunistic predator that kills off other sealife if its numbers aren’t controlled. It hides under rocks on the reef, so spearing one involves freediving plus a lot of care to avoid the fish’s fan of spines. “If you get stung by one, you are going to cry for your mother,” warned Captain Don.