Lamb is undeniably the meat of choice, for both symbolic and seasonal reasons (but mostly, it is delicious). Of the larger cuts, shoulder is ideal for slow-roasting until the meat pulls apart, while legs are better for a quicker roast with blushing pink meat inside.
If you have time, marinate a lamb joint for 24 hours. Steven Ellis, chef-proprietor at The Bailiwick in Surrey, recommends a simple blend of lemon rind, rosemary, thyme, garlic and oil. “This works perfectly with a butterflied lamb leg, which is the ideal size for a gathering of friends or family,” he says.
For a simpler option, James Lowe, chef and founder at Lyle’s in London, suggests scoring a butterflied leg of lamb and seasoning liberally with rock salt and herbs before grilling on the barbecue for 10-15 minutes. “You want to create a nice char on the outside while still leaving the lamb pink,” says Lowe.
If staying indoors, a slow-cooked shoulder is sure to impress. For a Sicilian twist, Emilia Strazzanti, chef and co-founder of Strazzanti, recommends roasting low and slow at 170C (150C fan) with tomatoes, onions and potatoes in one pot for three-and-a-half hours. You can get a starter out of this, too. “As Sicilians, we take the cooking juices of the lamb to coat parboiled pasta and top it with some pecorino cheese. Enjoy this as a starter with a fresh green salad dressed with freshly squeezed lemon juice and olive oil.”
