Set in a historic building, all rusting distressed walls and art deco-style drinks trolleys, it has an ‘East End squat meets five-star Cotswolds inn’ feel. The café-cum-cocktail lounge is surreally suspended between the seasons: a cosy fire crackles in a room decorated with conservatory rattan chairs and autumnal dashes of heather. Despite the imposingly high ceilings and decadently crumbling cornicing, it is relaxed and comfy.

The crowd

The local bohemian crowd have already claimed it as their own. As I sipped a limoncello and thyme cocktail, two young local musicians on the next table energetically flitted between disparaging the Government and discussing the prospects of the post-Covid Bristol DJ scene. Although the hotel is walking before it can run and is yet to open a fully-fledged restaurant, the cocktails are spot on. The Rosemary Paloma, with tequila, grapefruit and agave, is a vivacious carnival of a drink – sour, sweet and smelling of meadow. The Smoky Martini, with brandy, orange liqueur and caramel syrup, is mind-boggling – spiky and mellow at the same time. Snacks are adequate and include olives, cheese and charcuterie. It’s the kind of place where guests can feel at home, taking their half-drunk digestifs to their room upon retiring to bed.