Our goal after four leisurely hours on foot was Konoba Lipovo, a cheese farm run by Milijanka Puletić and her family, where we were served a mountain of Montenegrin food: cured meats, turkey goulash, filo pastry nettle pie, stuffed peppers and the local Kolašin cheese, lisnati sir. 

Only after a howling blizzard passed the next day, was I able to begin exploring what the skiing in Montenegro has to offer. Kolašin is made up of two resorts. Kolašin 1600 reaches 2,035m at its highest point – similar to Val d’Arly in France. The resort has only been running since 2019, and as a result everything is shiny and glossy, from its pine-walled equipment room stocked with Fischer gear to its smart Troglava restaurant and large terrace. 

Kolašin 1450, which peaks at 1,973m, is more established, having taken over from the old Bjelasica ski centre, which previously sat on the same site, in 2007. Only a week after my visit, the new chairlift linking the two resorts was officially opened, making a total ski area of 45km and offering a combined lift pass for €25 (£21).