Once the scraping is over (and… relax), Izabela finishes by massaging in a nourishing treatment – all done and dusted in about 30 minutes. As I sit up on the treatment bed, I daren’t look in the mirror because I expect to see a tomato face staring back at me, denuded of its outer layer. It’s only in the cab home I brave it and peer in my compact.
Shocker! My skin simply looks clean and glowing. Not angry at all. And it feels very, very smooth. With little downtime (although you must wear high-factor sunscreen afterwards), there’s no doubt this treatment yields a high level of instant gratification.
First, the kind of exfoliation it delivers is far more thorough than massaging in and splashing off a facial scrub. Oil, debris and dead skin cells vamoose. And because all the downy hairs are whisked away, too, your complexion is left looking pristinely polished.
The advantages of this are twofold. Skincare products are absorbed more easily, plus, make-up glides on like a dream. That said, I’m not hankering after what is called “dolphin skin” – a super-smooth face that when made-up with glistening cosmetics has such a superior sheen, it looks, well, wet. At my age, I have no ambition to channel an aquatic vibe – a touch of fabulous finesse will suffice.
Professional dermaplaning can be carried out every four to six weeks and regular treatments can help promote cell renewal and collagen production, as well as brighten and even out skin tone and texture. However, it can’t work on the prime causes of pigmentation problems or correct scarring. While it’s suitable for most skin types, if you have spots, pustular acne, inflammation, rosacea, extremely sensitive skin, cold sores or any issue that might be aggravated or encouraged to spread, steer clear of dermaplaning. And if you’re using skincare with retinoids, seek professional advice – this is especially important if they are prescription creams.
One of the big questions that always comes up with dermaplaning is whether it will encourage facial hair to grow thicker, faster or darker. Experts continually offer reassurance this won’t occur because dermaplaning doesn’t mess with the follicles, although hair might feel different (more blunt) as it regrows. And there’s always the possibility that once you’re used to a hairless visage, your normal vellus-ness might simply seem more plentiful.
Now that the treatment has made the leap from clinic to bathroom, as with any beauty treatments, there are always anecdotal stories of problems and “yikes moments”, with people reporting nicks, cuts and even scars when efforts go awry. To address the risk of DIY disasters, tools fashioned for home use are not as sharp as those used by pros and should have built-in micro-guards. They’re often billed for use on the brow area, too. Devices range from posh options, such as the Dermaflash Luxe with sonic technology, to disposable versions as cheap as chips – in fact, even supermarkets sell dermaplaning gadgets. I was surprised at the minimal instructions included in some chuckaway types. Perhaps that’s why there are so many dermaplaning videos on the international open university of YouTube. Be sure to select the source of any on-screen seminars wisely.
These are the basic principles: ensure your skin is totally clean and dry. Hold the blade at a 45-degree angle and, while pulling skin taut with the opposite hand, work in short, feathery, downward strokes. Don’t revisit any areas and avoid going anywhere near moles. Disinfect the blade after use, discarding it if you happen to drop it on the floor.
Apply moisturiser post-treatment and protect skin with a high-factor sunscreen afterwards because you’ve removed some of the horny outer layer, so it will be more sun-sensitive.
As for how many times you can use the same blade, it varies – if it doesn’t feel as sharp and efficient as the first time you used it, switch to a new one. And don’t get too carried away – if you’re seeing good results, that little gadget lying on your dressing table can whine and whisper: “Use me again, use me again.” Ignore the temptation.
Dermaplaning once a month or so should be sufficient – overdoing it can disrupt your skin’s natural barrier. If in doubt, visit a reliable professional first to experience it properly, ask relevant questions and see how it’s done. The bottom line? Mind how you go, then love how you glow.
