Grace & Savour is based around the work of chef David Taylor and his co-host and wife Anette. Formerly on the team that took Maaemo in Oslo from two to three Michelin stars, Taylor has immersed himself in the local agriculture, working with farmers to develop the most flavourful, rather than photogenic or symmetrical, produce. When you check in, you get a tour of the walled garden and a crash course in what’s for dinner. This is, as you may have guessed, serious tasting menu-only territory, but I was drawn more to the surface than the substance: the interiors here are absurdly beautiful. 

Creative director Fjona Hill has worked with a handful of independent UK-based carpenters, concrete sculptors and ceramicists to put together a space, and a set of bedrooms, that are close to my idea of visual perfection. 

From Sophie Sellu’s hand-carved vases to Josh Kennard and Oliver Milne’s sculptural coffee table, with an undulating surface reminiscent of topographical maps and a set of tactile wooden balls on top, everything is fresh, appealing and inviting to touch. 

I spent a while labouring over what I didn’t love. Some of the bowls at dinner felt, literally, a touch overwrought – nicer to look at than use – and while I nearly bought some myself a while back, I’ve reached saturation point with patinated, elongated, ivy-green bathroom tiles. Also, I like to see bathroom doors in hotel rooms. And hear them close. And hear nothing from that point on. There weren’t any in my room.

Dinner is, of course, the point here. Or at least the reason why all this handsome stuff was put together in the first place. David Taylor and his team have gone way beyond the realm of foams and theatre, but every dish has still been engineered, studied and, I imagine, reworked a million times.