There are many reasons to stake or support plants, and certain garden situations lend themselves to certain techniques and materials.
Border supports
Many border stalwarts have a tendency to flop or even topple, either because they have brittle stems (delphiniums), have large, heavy flowers (dahlias, peonies), are particularly lofty (solidago, sylphiums, helianthus), or simply because they have a tendency to be unruly (phlox, cosmos, ammi, campanulas, asters).
Frames for climbers
For the ultimate cottage garden feel, you can’t beat sweet peas or black-eyed susan vine smothering an artisanal frame of handwoven silver birch. This kind of staking can also be used in borders to create drama and height: a deftly placed clematis ascending a chestnut pyramid can make a striking accent.
The veg plot
Though the traditional beanpole wigwam is perfectly functional, a tripod of hazel poles interwoven with young birch saplings arguably makes a more attractive climbing frame for your French or runner beans.
And instead of allowing winter squash or mini pumpkins to run rampant across your precious growing space, think vertical and train their vigorous tendrils skywards, up pyramids and over archways.
Techniques for staking plants
Creating natural plant supports is much easier than it may appear, but there are a few handy techniques and tips to help you get started.
Think laterally
First, your creations will only be as good as the material you have to hand.
For any structure that requires weaving (birch obelisks, arches, tunnels), or will form a fretwork pattern of crossed stems (hazel top cages for emerging border perennials), you need to think laterally. A long, spindly single stem won’t cut it; you need saplings with lots of side branches to weave or intermesh.
Get tooled up
Make sure you are tooled up for the job. You’ll need secateurs and/or a pruning saw to cut your stems to length; string for making structural ties (these can often be removed after weaving); goggles to protect the eyes (staking material can be pretty whippy); and gloves if you have sensitive hands (I prefer gloveless weaving as the whole process feels much more tactile).
You may also need a stepladder for taller structures, particularly arches and tunnels.
Working with pots
If your outside space is a balcony or patio, you can still get creative with natural staking in pots. I have used silver birch, cornus and even beech to create domes, spirals and tripods in various-sized pots to support annual climbers, schizanthus (poor man’s orchid), plectranthus, tradescantias, heliotropes and certain trailing pelargoniums. The results are eye-catching and effective.
The Garden House offers a range of horticultural courses and workshops from the garden in Brighton (garden housebrighton.co.uk). All materials supplied by Wild Sussex (wildsussex.co.uk).
Best types of material
To my mind, the five key natural staking materials are silver birch, hazel, willow, cornus and chestnut.
