These elements of getting dressed have always occupied her, along with comfort. So while she is faithful to the spirit of Dior, mining its archives each season, each collection she finds ways to make its emblems, from the houndstooth check and kitten heels that Christian Dior developed with Roger Vivier to the quilted leathers, not just relevant, but ahead of the pack. ‘When Mr Dior began making shoes, they were individually fitted to each couture client’s feet, but with ready to wear, we obviously can’t do that,’ says Chiuri. By using materials more common in sports such as motorbiking, she’s come up with a shoe that’s both decorative and malleable.
Her accessories are on fire too (and much copied by certain other designer brands). The upshot is that Dior, which used to be dwarfed by Chanel, is now in the top 10 of French companies, alongside Total, the energy company, and BNP Paribas banking group. As her critics would doubtless carp, so, so banal.